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New York Oysters


Thursday, July 17, 2008

Main%20Gridskipper%20Oyster%20Image%20200.jpgIt takes a leap of faith to suck down a quivering mass of cold, briny bivalve meat for the first time, but once you're hooked, it's difficult to walk past a raw bar without ordering a dozen. To aficionados, an icy tray of fresh oysters is akin to a round of shots: a quick burst of intense flavor that feels like a miniature celebration, with all its attendant toasting and savoring of the moment. New York has been an oyster town for generations, and these marvelous mollusks are still on the menu at restaurants all over the city. Here are a few of the better places in New York for shucking and slurping the ocean's bounty.

1

Shaffer City Oyster Bar

5 W 21st St
New York, NY 10010

Shaffer City Oyster Bar claims to be "Heaven for Oyster Lovers," and I can't dispute this assertion. The oyster menu is divided between Atlantic and Pacific varieties, costing $2.00 and $2.50 each, respectively. You might want to mix a few Cape Anns, from Nova Scotia, with some Hama Hamas from Washington State. Then you've got the whole east coast-west coast rivalry going on, and you can choose sides. [link]

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2

Pearl Oyster Bar

18 Cornelia St
New York, NY 10014

If I have to choose sides between Ed's Lobster Bar and Pearl Oyster Bar, I'm going to go with Pearl. I enjoyed one of the best meals of my life in this temple to seafood on Cornelia Street, with a classic lobster roll and a selection of oysters that made me smile. Get a seat at the bar if you can, to enjoy the symphony of seafood coming together and perhaps get a few words in with Rebecca Charles, who named this inspired restaurant after her grandmother. [link]

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3

Old Homestead Steakhouse

56 9th Ave
New York, NY 10011

It's a bit ironic, I suppose, that a steakhouse inspired me to write this ode to oysters. A recent bachelor party meal at the Old Homestead featured one of those seafood towers that would normally seem better in theory than reality. But the Old Homestead's version was fantastic, with chilled crab meat, jumbo shrimp cocktail, and some of the biggest and most delicious oysters I've ever had. There might be more sophisticated ways to get your oyster on in New York, but nothing is more enjoyable than the sheer decadence of having as much raw bar food as you can stuff in your mouth. [link]

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4

Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar

101 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10003

This high-end seafood spot is owned by the same people who brought you Jewel Bako, which means that guests can expect the finest, freshest seafood available anywhere, inventive recipes, excellent service, and a gasp-inducing check at the end of the meal. So save up some dough, and then trust the chef and order the "Fruit De Mer Six Ways," deconstructed oysters Rockefeller, and perhaps the tasting menu. These guys really know food. [link]

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5

Marlow & Sons

81 Broadway
Brooklyn, NY 11211

People can make fun of Williamsburg all they want, but it's hard to find fault with Marlow & Sons. This multi-use space is a hit with whatever it aims to be at the time, be it general store, cafe, or cocktail spot. Come by in the evening for platters of delicious east coast oysters, paired with signature cocktails and high-end draft beers like Gaffel Kolsch, Gouden Carolus, or Blue Point Oktoberfest. If a bottled beer is more your style, the Gearys Porter is an excellent accompaniment to a plate of oysters. [link]

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6

Markt

676 6th Ave
New York, NY 10010

Not long ago, Markt moved from the heart of the Meatpacking District to a smaller space in Chelsea. It's no less fancy, though, and its Belgian-style oesterbar is a thing of beauty. As with most restaurants dedicated to cuisine other than seafood, the raw bar selection reflects quality over quantity. Go a la carte, or throw down for a sampler, which comes with periwinkles and Jonah crab claws. Ask your server for advice on ordering a Belgian beer from a spectacular beer menu. [link]

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7

Lure Fishbar

142 Mercer St
New York, NY 10012

Lure Fishbar occupies the space of the former Canteen, with its futuristic (and downright silly) orange chairs and fusiony menu. It's much better as a somewhat off the wall seafood place, and while you can get a grand meal here, cheapskates like me are drawn to the happy hour. Celebrate another day above ground with freshly shucked oysters for a buck apiece, paired with $6 cocktails, $5 wines, and $4 beers. The Dark and Stormy, which is made with dark rum, fresh limes, and club soda, is an especially good accompaniment to oysters, and has a cool name to boot. [link]

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8

Keens Steakhouse

72 W 36th St
New York, NY 10018

Who says oysters can only come from a seafood restaurant? Steakhouses have some of the finest raw bars in the city, and Keens is no exception. So before you chow down on the legendary Keens mutton chop, amuse your bouche with a dozen oysters or a chilled large seafood tray. Established in 1885, Keens is one of New York's oldest restaurants. The menu has remained more or less unchanged over time, so a meal at Keens is a trip through New York culinary history. [link]

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9

Grand Central Oyster Bar

89 E 42nd St
New York, NY 10017

Grand Central Oyster Bar is usually the first name that comes to mind when the topic of oysters comes up in this city, and rightfully so. Since 1913, an army of shuckers have been busy opening up Blue Points, Beavertails, and Moonstones for both commuters and locals. Order a sampler and sit back under the gorgeous Guastavino-tiled ceiling as you savor a classic New York experience. [link]

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10

Ed's Lobster Bar

222 Lafayette St
New York, NY 10012

Ed McFarland used to work at Pearl Oyster Bar, so he's well-prepared to strike off on his own with this eatery that falls somewhere between fancy and casual. You won't find a huge selection of oysters here, but the beauty of Ed's is that you don't need to worry about it. Whatever comes off the raw bar is sure to be divine. Individual oysters and samplers are best followed by a lobster roll, lobster salad, or lobster pot pie. (photo) [link]

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11

Blue Water Grill

31 Union Square W
New York, NY 10003

For a somewhat fancy restaurant in a popular neighborhood, Blue Water Grill has a surprisingly affordable raw bar. Choose from seven different types of oysters that range from $2.25 each for Shinnecocks, Malpeques, and Steamboats up to $3 apiece for Washington State Totten Inlet oysters. They do make it easy to indulge, though, with platters ranging from the downright modest chilled shellfish sampler for $34 to the extravagant $130 chilled shellfish chateau. Go for the chateau. [link]

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12

Blue Ribbon Brooklyn Brasserie

280 5th Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11215

There are six Blue Ribbon permutations in Manhattan, but I'm partial to its two more laid-back eateries in Brooklyn. Blue Ribbon Brasserie Brooklyn, which is located right next door to Blue Ribbon Sushi, is a festive, crowd-pleasing restaurant with a large oyster bar and a kitchen that turns out gems from both surf and turf. A half-dozen oysters will set you back $18, which isn't exactly cheap, but you'll find yourself making excuses to come back to this lovable Park Slope classic after you are wowed by dish after mouth-watering dish. [link]

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13

BLT Fish

21 W 17th St
New York, NY 10011

If you're not from New York, you're to be forgiven for thinking BLT stands for bacon, lettuce, and tomato. It actually refers to Bistro Laurent Tourondel, and the great French chef who has taken over the city with restaurants dedicated to high-end steak and burgers turns his attention to seafood in this fancy restaurant in Chelsea. Pick your oysters a la carte, or enjoy various inspired raw bar platters that also include dungeness crab, shrimp cocktail, and whelks, a type of marine snail. Come on, a snail is no weirder than an oyster. [link]

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14

Balthazar

80 Spring St
New York, NY 10012

While the selection of oysters at this Soho brasserie isn't quite as broad as some other raw bars around town, the quality is consistently top-notch. Malpeque oysters are always available for $15 a half-dozen, while the west coast and oysters du jour change from day to day. To raise the decadence level a bit, indulge in Le Balthazar plateau de fruits de mer for $99. With Balthazar's French ambiance, oysters plus champagne in a cozy banquette could easily lead to post-meal shenanigans. And by shenanigans, I mean doin' it. [link]

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15

Aquagrill

210 Spring St
New York, NY 10012

A fun spot for all kinds of seafood, this Soho classic is a mecca for oyster lovers, with 25 to 30 varieties on the menu any given day. Order a few Coromandel XL New Zealand oysters, Nova Scotia Malagash oysters, or maybe some Montauk oysters from Long Island, which pair well with white wine, lager, or chilled sake. More than 200 different kinds of oysters have passed through the raw bar over the years, making Aquagrill a fine place to get a foundation in oyster appreciation. [link]

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